Great Glen Wildlife
Tour Report
Tour 6 Belarus, Berezinsky Reserve
11–18 April 2007
By David Kent (Tour leader)
Day 1; Wednesday, 11 April Weather in London was very agreeable, the temperature forecast to reach 21 °C. Following rendezvous and check in at LGW south terminal we (except R. Pain) boarded the Tupelo aircraft, our scheduled 10:55 flight to Minsk with Belavia departing the stand exactly on time. Touching down punctually at Minsk International Airport the sky was overcast and temperature just 8 °C. By 17:30 we had cleared passport control and claimed baggage, linked up with Richard who had travelled to Belarus by rail — also with Sergey our interpreter and escort — and were on our way north by minibus. A Hooded Crow on the runway and feral pigeon by the terminal building were the first birds noted, a Common Buzzard and White Stork being spotted en route to Serguch Hotel in Berezinsky Reserve — reached at 19:10.
With daylight in hand we stretched our legs by way of a short walk around Domzheritsy village, seeing White Wagtails and a singing Black Redstart.
Yuri, the reserve ornithologist who would accompany us for most of the week, then arrived to brief us on the programme ahead — before we sat down to a fitful dinner in the hotel restaurant.
Day 2; Thursday, 12 April A rather cold beginning to the day, but sunny and clear. Following a leisurely 08:00 breakfast we were away by 09:00. Pre-breakfast explorers (Richard and DK) had seen Hawfinches and a Nuthatch building up the entrance hole to its nest.
Heading south across the reserve we made a first stop by a checkpoint on the Berezina River, to look for birdlife on and around the floodplain. A modest show of waders included Redshanks, Black-tailed Godwits, Lapwings, Greenshanks and Snipe — all very vocal and active in courtship mode. Numerous White Wagtails foraged the river margin, while a Goldcrest and Reed Bunting were seen in nearby willows. A cold wind blew across the area, providing lift for Common Buzzards and White Storks which appeared above flanking forest horizons. Pairs of Teal and Wigeon were seen on an oxbow of the river.
Onwards travel led into an open expanse of rolling arable country — a favourite raptor foraging haunt — around the small village of Halmovka. Typical of old rural Belarusian villages the houses were mainly log built, window frames ornately carved and colourfully painted. Each was surrounded by a picket fence, firewood was neatly stacked against outbuildings, soil freshly tilled beneath fruit trees and Starling nest boxes held aloft on tall poles.
A first raptor spotted by Richard was quickly ID’d to be a large female Goshawk, prompting our exodus from the vehicle to watch it drift from view across the tilled fields. Further into the area a stop produced a female Marsh Harrier, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Sparrowhawk and Kestrel. Literally hundreds of passage Skylarks flew by, while Ravens tailed a tractor ploughing a field.
On reaching the wintering quarters of European Bison we paused by a small lake where several Tufted Ducks and a Green Sandpiper were seen. A short way on a tiny raptor perched atop an isolated tree turned out to be a male Merlin.
We were duly informed that rangers working on our behalf had failed to find the bison herd, which they suspected had already shifted to the dense impenetrable bogs where they spend the summer. On pausing to examine two-day-old bison tracks a female Sparrowhawk flew by carrying a Starling.
Next heading for nearby Lake Palik a Roe Deer was spotted running across a field. About two kms. from the lake we stopped along the approach track to walk the outstanding distance, strolling through wonderful boggy forest habitat that served up a handful of common birds such as Robin and Blackbird, also a Hazel Hen which was heard whistling but barely glimpsed when it flew off. Incidental wildlife items included Brimstone, Large Tortoiseshell and Camberwell Beauty butterflies, also Marsh Frogs.
Reaching the lake at about 14:00 we discovered lunch awaiting, prepared by a forward contingent of rangers who had caught fish and made us a delicious fish soup, accompanied by salads and an assortment of cold meats — quite a banquet. Back to the birdwatching the lake served up numerous Great Crested Grebes, flocks of Scaup, Tufted Duck, Pochard and Red-breasted Merganser. Two Goosanders flew by, a handful of Goldeneye dropped in fairly close by, with a small group of stunning Smew arguably being the stars of the show. A few Black-headed Gulls drifted by and a handful of raptors included Marsh Harriers, two Lesser Spotted Eagles and an adult White-tailed Eagle — the latter two species rather distant. A Marsh Tit appeared by our picnic site.
At 15:30 we headed away from the area, soon spotting a very large thick-coated, pale-coloured Fox. Again crossing the arable zone we continued to look for raptors, seeing male Marsh and Hen Harriers, a Black Kite, two Lesser Spotted Eagles, a Kestrel, a very close female Sparrowhawk and a Merlin crossing the road (in flight — not on foot!), also the inevitable scattering of Common Buzzards plus a soaring “kettle” (adopted American term) of thirteen White Storks.
From an overview of a Great Snipe lekking site a Brown Hare was spotted and a Wolf dropping containing Roe Deer hair was found. At the checkpoint a foraging Redwing added to the riverside bird tally.
On arriving back at the hotel (18:00) a flight of sixteen migrant White Storks passed over the village. We walked back to the road end to photograph wild flowers in the woodland, including a stunning show of blue-flowered Hepatica and Alternate-leaved Golden Saxifrage (yellow flowers). It had been an exceedingly agreeable if coldish day, the temperature having barely reached 12 °C.
Day 3; Frday. 13 April 09:00 breakfast for an eventual 10:20 departure, the morning again clear and sunny and positively less cold. Accompanied by ranger Stanislav (Staz) we headed for the Berezina, two Mistle Thrushes and a Grey-headed Woodpecker flying up from a field en route. A detour was made via a branch of the Serguchsky canal system, where flanking alder carr was a noteworthy habitat feature. Frank spotted a Hazel Hen fly off, but little else was seen before arriving at the river checkpoint. We again checked the floodplain, seeing three Cranes in a distant field, and a flock of Bean Geese passed high overhead. A quartering male Marsh Harrier caused all the waders to lift and mill about, providing us with an excellent show. Paddy spotted a Curlew.
Boarding two outboard-powered boats, fitted with extremely uncomfortable seating, we headed downstream on an exploration of the meandering Berezina. Just after leaving the boat landing an Osprey was seen lifting from the river ahead with a fish clutched in its talons — Richard had actually seen it dive. An eagle seen moments later was declared by DK to be “almost certainly” a Greater Spotted Eagle, judging by its comparatively broad wings, a fairly close Lesser Spotted Eagle being spotted shortly afterwards. More excitingly, the lead boat flushed an immature White-tailed Eagle from the ground close to the bank, which pitched into a nearby tree to present us with excellent prolonged viewing. By lunch time there had been eight sightings of W t. Eagles, all immature birds and all seen extremely well. Allowing for repeat sightings of the same birds at least four individuals were involved, possibly six.
Ducks lifted in their thousands as we travelled by side lagoons, oxbows and flooded water meadows, featuring Mallard, Wigeon (most numerous), Shoveler, Pintail, Gadwall, Teal and Garganey (pale-grey backs). Reaching a riverside dacha at 13:45 we went ashore for a picnic lunch. The surrounding area had been well “rotovated” by Wild Boar and the tracks and droppings of a cow Elk and calf were found. As we learned, Elk may be sexed from their droppings, those of a cow being elongated while a bull’s are round — not many people know that! Ground flora was dominated by an eye-catching mix of Hepaticas and Wood Anemones. From the dacha a Black Woodpecker was heard drumming beyond the near river bend.
Onwards travel passed several large lodges of European Beavers, with lots of evidence of recent activity. A water meadow to our left contained several Goldeneye and a stunning pair of Smew. We landed to make several walks, mainly to experience the habitat. An interesting find was a wild bee’s nest in a tree-hole cavity taken over by a Pine Marten. In addition to lots of marten dropping there were also the pellets of a Barn Owl that had roosted there.
Pulling off into an old disused canal we disembarked for a longer walk in search of White-backed Woodpeckers. It was by this time really quite warm, stimulating butterfly activity — of which we saw Large Tortoiseshell, Comma and Map. Moor Frogs were active, several seen and heard across the canal. Janet saw a Viviparous Lizard while Richard, who had hung back, managed to see a White-backed Woodpecker. Further ahead a Hazel Hen flew off (spotted only by DK and Staz), Willow Tit and Chiffchaff also seen. Not far from the boats during the return walk water disturbance across the canal alerted us of a beaver — a large male which sensed our presence and slapped the water with its tail before diving. Its travel beneath the water could be traced by the trail of rising air bubbles, enabling us to predict its next point of surfacing and thereby achieve several further views. Birds and wildlife aside the general location was a delight to explore. The lofty birches in particular were a magnificent sight, especially when their white bark was illuminated by the warm light of late afternoon sun. Across the canal tall alder carr was dominant, from the top of which Redwing song was the overriding sound.
Heading back upriver we stopped on seeing a W.-t. Eagle fly off from the vicinity of an Elk carcass — by which we discovered eagle feathers. Two scavenging Ravens also attended the site. Further upstream six Whooper Swans flew by. We again went ashore at the dacha to await conditions of failed light when beavers would be active. While waiting we heard Black and Great Spotted Woodpeckers drumming, enjoyed the sound of Snipe “drumming” and “tocking” overhead, also seeing a Muskrat.
Setting off at 20:00 we pushed slowly against the river current, a prey-carrying Goshawk appearing to our right. The lead boat closely approached a swimming beaver early into the journey, then a second. The boats then swapped position, the forward party soon coming on a beaver swimming across the river and tolerating approach to within about eight metres, before it discretely slipped beneath the water surface. Light rapidly failed so we promptly headed for the hotel arriving at 21:30.
Day 4; Satuday, 14 April 03:15 T/coffee for a 03:30 departure. Light rain fell at the start, quickly passing during the 40 minute drive to a Capercaillie lekking area north of Domzheritsy — an Eastern Hedgehog seen along the way. A walk in total darkness for about a kilometre (having been advised it would be 200 metres) along an open pine-forest track led to an observation platform with overview of an extensive pine bog — where the lek takes place. Waiting for about 30 minutes until the first hint of light broke through, we duly discerned the faint (distant) sound of a displaying cock Capercaillie. A very slow stalk along the bog edge brought us closer to the bird, audibly displaying in a tree. On hearing the bird fly away it was concluded that we had probably approached too close.
Robins and Mistle Thrushes were the first birds to start singing, while Cranes trumpeted from deep within the bog; a distant Pygmy Owl also called. A cock Capercaillie was briefly seen flying over the bog as we left the area. As daylight developed Black Woodpeckers drummed in every direction and a Three-toed Woodpecker was heard near the vehicle. Common Crossbills overhead and Willow Tits in the pine canopy were the sum of other birds seen. The return walk featured a great many signs, from the territorial scrapings of Wolves to fresh Elk tracks. A clubmoss with trident spore spikes was an interesting plant. A Black Grouse territory was next visited, only to be discovered inactive. Back at the vehicle for 07:30 we reached the hotel at 08:10. Although the sky was partly overcast it had not been especially cold. Following breakfast we were free to rest up until lunch at 14:00.
Lunch was a little late arriving, after which we explored the wider area of Domzheritsy village seeing an Osprey, Woodlark, assorted thrushes and a male Yellowhammer. At 17:00 we set off for a location south of Domzheritsy where local ranger Sasha showed us a bears nest!..by way of a stack of dry spruce branches arranged into the form of a large nest tight to the trunk of a sheltering Norway Spruce. Close to a nearby village we also visited a good example of beaver habitat, featuring a large dam and lodge (disused).
Travelling to the fringe of the reserve core area — a strictly protected zone — we next climbed up into an elevated observation hide (19:10) to await mammal activity. Richard saw a Grey-headed Woodpecker, a roding Woodcock flew by and White Wagtails foraged nearby; Cranes were also heard calling alas no mammals showed. We departed the hide before dark and had excellent views of a Woodcock on the road ahead of the vehicle during the return drive.
At 21:00 we had dinner, then out again at 21:45 on a two-hour spotlighting sortie. Mammals were again the main focus of interest, but five Brown Hares, a few village moggies and the occasional moth were the sum total of wildlife seen. Spotlighting seemed at times to be carried out at too fast a pace. It was a beautiful starry night, the planet Venus showing particularly well.
Day 5; Sunday, 15 April 09:00 breakfast for a 10:00 departure, the morning sunny with a few cloud patches, cool with a light wind. Together with Yuri we first visited the west side of Rozhniaskoye mire, a large pine bog immediately to the west of Domzheritsy. Walking out across the spongy and waterlogged surface we negotiated sphagnum dominated pools in a quest to locate Citrine Wagtails, visiting the sites of last years breeding pairs. The walking was rather difficult so our exploration was somewhat limited. A Great Grey Shrike, several Meadow Pipits, a Crane and a Marsh Harrier were seen, alas not our target bird. The habitat was nevertheless well worth experiencing, its notable ground flora including Leatherleaf, Bog Rosemary, Labrador Tea, Cranberry and Northern Bilberry.
Returning through bordering forest Yuri showed us an interesting parasitic birch fungus purported to have medicinal properties. Back at the vehicle a Waxwing flew over, seen by just Richard and DK. Butterflies seen included Large and Green-veined Whites, and Peacock.
Next on the agenda was a visit to the hunting lodge at Nivki, from which we walked out along a boardwalk to an observation pavilion by the Boshanka River — affectionately referred to by DK as “the bandstand”. Across the river there were three visible beaver lodges, all clearly inhabited, inspiring a resolve to return during the evening. Our visit produced Great Spotted and Grey-headed Woodpeckers — lured in with recordings — and a Treecreeper was heard, while Common Toads and Marsh Frogs were in “heavy petting” mode close to the boardwalk.
We then continued with a walk through mixed forest where Ural Owls nest. Little birdlife was seen or heard, but we discovered the extensive workings of Black Woodpeckers and came on exquisite Pasque Flowers on the pinewood floor. By vehicle we travelled on to the presidential dacha by Lake Plavno, stopping en route on spotting a large colony of Pasque flowers. These proved to be a popular food plant for Brimstone butterflies, the general scene prompting a session of group photographic activity.
At 14:00 we had lunch in the incongruously luxurious dacha, then walked out along a wooden walkway to a viewing platform from which Ospreys were seen at their nest across the lake. A distant White-tailed Eagle was seen, being mobbed by an equally distant Marsh Harrier. Although there was quite a showing of waterfowl, the long range viewing against the sun made identification attempts rather difficult. We returned to the hotel for 16:45, it had become very warm by mid afternoon.
After dinner we set off for Nivki at 19:45 and walked out to the bandstand to await beaver activity — it was a fabulous evening featuring wonderful sunset, the water surface flat calm. Green Sandpipers trilled and Snipe drummed overhead. The wake of a swimming beaver was immediately spotted at the far side of this broad aspect of the river. Continuous beaver observation followed, with animals frequently seen in the water and occasionally emerging on land. About six individuals were involved. It was one of our best ever beaver-watching sessions in an absolutely superb setting.
Discretely departing the scene without disturbing the animals we next linked up with Yuri, who took us out to look for Ural Owls along a canal bank flanked by alder carr — it was by this time virtually dark. Using an Ural Owl recording he periodically played their calls, eventually receiving a response. Although it took awhile, the wild bird finally flew in and perched in silhouette directly above us. It shifted position several times and, although dark, it could be clearly seen against the sky when perched and in flight. On our way back we stopped to view the sky, its starry contents particularly vivid in this completely light-polution free environment. Many constellations were recognised, several meteorites (shooting stars) appeared and a satellite was seen tracking across the sky. Back at the hotel 23:15.
Day 6; Monday, 16 April A very beautiful morning, completely windless with the ground lightly frosted. 05:45 T/coffee preceded 06:05 departure, linking up with reserve hunters at Barsuki (hunting reserve) to the north-east of Domzheritsy. We headed directly for a location where Elk activity had been monitored during the previous mornings. In spite of a thorough exploration of the area, on foot and by vehicle, however, we failed to spot a single animal — with the exception of two large village dogs that charged about the area barking (chasing game). They had clearly disturbed any mammals that may otherwise have been out grazing the meadows.
During a walk Black Grouse were heard displaying — bubbling and hissing sounds. From a track following a section of canal we eventually spotted two of the birds, a cock and hen, perched high in a tall birch — birch catkins being a favourite food in spring. From the same location three Wrynecks were heard calling which, after careful stalking, we managed to achieve good views of. We then examined evidence of recent beaver workings in the trough of the canal.
Lake Berescha was our next destination, an excellent shallow lake — very attractive location — where a Bittern was immediately heard “booming” (later seen in flight by Paddy). The water surface was flat calm with the early morning sunlight radiating from our rear to enhance colour. A wide representation of waterfowl included Great Crested Grebe, Mute Swan, Mallard, Teal, Shoveler, Pochard, Tufted Duck, Goldeneye and Coot. Numerous Black-headed Gulls and two pairs of Marsh Harriers were also present.
Back at the hotel 09:30 for breakfast at 10:00, followed by departure at 11:00 for the core area of Berezinsky — a protected zone including units of mire and primeval forest where access is strictly limited to scientists and researchers and, by way of special privilege, ourselves. Accompanied by Yuri and mammologist Igor we periodically stopped to attempt luring out Hazel Hens and Black Woodpeckers with recordings. A first walk was taken at the site of a forest fire in 1992, where we examined browsing damage to birches and pines caused by Elk. A Tree Pipit was seen, with Peacock and Holly Blue butterflies active.
Next stopping at a memorial to partisans killed during the war, we were reminded of the terrible casualties suffered by the Belarusians — a quarter of the population died.
During onwards travel we abruptly stopped when a Wild Boar was seen trotting away across boggy alder carr to the left. Unfortunately it was seen just by Richard from the front of the vehicle. Further along we were joined by rangers Piotr and Valery who showed us fresh tracks of a female Brown Bear with cub, less than 48 hour old. Reaching a wooden river-bridge we took a walk along the track ahead, coming upon a spruce containing deep scratch marks and even hairs — a bear’s territorial marking post. While examining the tree just off the forest track, the rangers excitedly called “Volk!” (Wolf). Unbelievably a Wolf had just crossed the track as we were engrossed with the bear evidence. A short way on Yuri finally managed to lure a Black-Woodpecker into view and Igor showed us Wolf droppings, which he broke apart to reveal its composition of Wild Boar remains (fur and bone fragments).
The track ended at the site of a long since abandoned farm, where the dead stems and seed-heads of Giant Hogweed dominated the opening, and fruit trees had been well-browsed by Elk and ravaged by bears foraging for fruit. Here we had an utterly delicious barbecue meal accompanied by frequent toasts of vodka, begging the question — did Igor wash his hands (after handling the Wolf droppings) before putting meat on the skewers?!!
It was almost 16:00 by the time we left the location and drove on to the heart of the primeval forest unit. We again examined evidence of Brown Bear presence, in the form of huge footprint impressions in moss (a large male) and numerous droppings — just to prove that wild bears really do! This was the heart of a male bear’s territory. A Green Sandpiper flew over the site, performing its territorial flight display high above the forest canopy.
In the same area we came upon extremely fresh Wolf tracks, made within recent hours, in all probability made by the animal seen earlier.
The most impressive zone of the forest was explored on foot, where birches and aspens attained enormous heights, some specimens having basal diameters of almost a metre. The tangle of raw forest featuring collapsed trees, rotting woody material and all the life that arises from this natural state is a phenomenally rare, pristine habitat — one that is not to be found on this scale elsewhere in Europe. Several wind-toppled aspens of enormous length and girth were completely stripped of bark by Elk, their teeth marks creating a mosaic of patterns on the trunks. Flocks of small passerines flying up from the forest floor were predominantly migrant Chaffinches, among which several white-rumped Bramblings were spotted. The weak drumming of a White-backed Woodpecker was heard.
A beautiful sunset manifested as we left the forest, particularly arresting as it dipped beyond one of the great mires. A Hazel Hen was the last wildlife item seen, lifting from the track ahead. Actual wildlife sightings had been few, but the locations visited must surely rate as a major highlight of the week. The hotel was reached at 20:20.
After the frosty start the day warmed up considerably, T shirt weather by the afternoon — we even had to retreat to the shade during the barbecue. The temperature probably reached about 20 °C., it had remained sunny and windless.
Day 7; Tuesday, 17 April A very nice day weather-wise, starting mild, sunny and wind free, becoming very warm as the day progressed. After an 08:00 breakfast we set of on foot at 09:15 to explore the area immediately west of the hotel, where DK and Richard had independently seen Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers early on. From the outset the outstanding flora of the woodland floor kept us interested. Walking through mainly deciduous forest we reached a field where birches were rapidly reclaiming the area. Following the forest margin we disturbed numerous foraging Bramblings and heard the plaintive call of a Grey-headed Woodpecker, which Yuri lured in for close viewing — best sighting of the week. The walk eventually led to the eastern side of Rozhnianskoye pine bog where Bramblings continued to dominate the bird scene. A newly constructed observation tower provided us with a wonderful view across the mire, where Tree Pipits and Common Buzzards were the main items on show. A nearby boardwalk into the bog enabled us to again examine the flora, while two Viviparous Lizards enjoyed the warmth of the wood.
The return walk led through an old-age stand of trees where ground flora was particularly rich. Bog Violet, Asarabacca, Yellow and Wood Anemones, Lungwort, Toothwort, Yellow Archangel, Spring Pea, Hepatica, Alternate-leaved Golden Saxifrage and Mezereon were all in flower. Yuri finally managed to lure in our target bird — Lesser Spotted Woodpecker — which, although occurring in the UK, was a “first” for some of us. Back at the hotel 12:15.
A cultural experience was next on the agenda, by way of a vodka shopping spree at the local shop, before travelling to Lake Domzheritsy for an alfresco lunch at 13:30. DK had fleeting views of a Blue Hare along the approach track. Apart from Great Crested Grebes birdlife was sparse on the lake. Around the picnic site there were numerous Siskins plus a few Chiffchaffs. Walking out along a boardwalk through reedbeds a heady fragrance emanating from willow catkins was very pronounced. Back at the hotel 15:30.
After a couple of hours free time (during which Richard discovered bear tracks just a few hundred metres from the hotel) we set off again at 18:00, a Hawfinch being seen in birches by the hotel. It was a beautiful warm evening for this final excursion of the tour, returning to the Berezina River checkpoint for a leisurely end-of-day birdwatching session. Waders were, as expected, particularly active. Up to fifteen Snipe could be seen displaying aloft at any one time. A Lesser Spotted Eagle was sighted at an early stage, later performing its “roller-coastering” territorial flight, folding its wings and falling into steep dives. Two White-fronted Geese on the water meadow were new species for the checklist, as were three dapper male Blue-headed Wagtails among a large gathering of White Wagtails. Greenshanks and Black-tailed were very vocal and active, and a pair of Fieldfares appeared in trees by the track. Towards sunset a final new bird for the tour, a Black Stork, flew across the flood plain and along the forest horizon.
Looking towards the sun myriad flying insects were highlighted, a Longhorn Beetle was discovered on the bridge and, in the water shallows beneath, great numbers of Common Toads were engrossed in communal nuptial activity. Reluctantly departing the scene at 20:00 we were back at the hotel a half-hour later for a farewell dinner
Day 8; Wednesday, 18 April After a 06:00 breakfast (Ricard had been out early and seen two hedgehogs) we loaded baggage into the minibus and said our farewell to Berezinsky. Leaving at 06:40 we duly arriving at Minsk International Airport 08:25. After saying our goodbyes to Sergey we boarded the 09:55 flight to LGW, which departed on time and arrived 10:45 (ten minutes early), thus concluding the tour.
Notes/Comments
Early spring tours to Belarus focus on the experiences of primeval habitats, mammal viewing, bird passage and displaying forest grouse. On this occasion we had poor success with mammals, not seeing any of the larger species — European Bison or Elk. It was of some consolation that we enjoyed one of the best ever sessions of observing European Beavers. There were of course ample signs of major mammal presence, which are always worth seeing. One always hope for a sighting of a major predator, a Wolf eluding us by a matter of moments on Day 6.
Birdlife was very good including notable raptor content, twelve species having been recorded and seen very well. It was disappointing not to achieve sightings of cock Capercaillie, beyond fleeting glimpses.
Wildlife aside, a visit to Belarus is always rewarding for the experience of ancient forests, the visual aspect of rural village life, and taste of a way of life unimaginable in the west. It is my personal hope that the tour was enjoyed by everyone regardless of wildlife content and that each will have returned with lasting memories of a positive nature — my personal top memory is of the fresh spring greenery and forest wild flowers.